Yogabones

»Ashtanga as taught by Sri K.P. Jois«

Description

Yogabones is the Ashtanga-driven yoga center that is repeatedly placed among the best in Goa by those in the know. Despite having no resort-style facilities - in fact offering nothing more than a morning yoga session and an evening gathering on the beach - they make our top picks for the outstanding teaching skills and magnetic personalities of Rolf and Marci. Here is a center unlike any other on our planet. Simple, pure, refined.

What we love

- The owner-couple Rolf and Marci
- Open year-round
- Dogs are welcome
- The day-end beach gathering

Things to know

- Morning sessions only
- No accommodation or food
- Address available on contact with center
- July - October is Goa’s monsoon season

Why to go

- Pure Ashtanga
- Gorgeous Goa
- Open year round

Led by the husband-and-wife team of Rolf and Marci, Yogabones is a haven of Ashtanga yoga. The pair have the lithe, toned bodies typical of Ashtangis and work individually and together, leading classes in a hands-on style to inch their students ever-closer to perfection in their poses. Both have studied under famous guru Shri K. Pattabhi Jois, and Rolf has the certification to prove his stature in the style. Marci also has a background in Iyengar yoga, so she will occasionally use props like cushions, ropes and chairs to push the body ever-deeper into a pose whilst maintaining perfect alignment and breathing.

Unlike other yoga centers in Goa, Yogabones is open year-round. This is not easy in an area known for its monsoon rains and its habit of shutting down during the off-season. Rolf and Marci never miss a day of yoga practice though, and to them it makes perfect sense to be available for those who wish to join them. The approach to practice is simple here: Early-morning sessions only, which are almost always self-led, meaning that Rolf or Marci are there but are not guiding every class. This has been described as among the best two hours of Ashtanga anywhere, but once the morning ends, the shala closes.

Rolf is a constant favorite with Yogabones' students. He sees absolutely no difference between work and play, rest and activity, and has the same cheerful disposition no matter what he is engaged in. His broad-minded attitude and laid-back demeanor make Yogabones a personality-driven center, as well as a yoga-driven one.

Marci, like Rolf, is an accomplished practitioner and teacher. As well as guiding her own students, she works in a complementary tandem with Rolf to bring perfection to the poses of their fellow Ashtangis. Marci is the force behind the Yogabones business, as it is she who deals with the external communication and other vital elements of ensuring a smooth experience for all who visit here.

Although beginners are welcome here, there aren't too many to be found. Yogabones does not publicize its address or phone number, and it is often word-of-mouth that brings an Ashtangi here, rather than heavy advertising. This makes the center something of a secret kept by those who are 'in the loop.' Contact with Yogabones is via email only although these are mostly answered promptly by Marci. Yogabones is almost always fully booked, except in the rainy season when the braver travelers will be pleased with the lack of bodies filling the yoga space.

There is no accommodation or food offered on-site. This is purely a space for yoga, discussion, and learning, rather than a more conventional yoga holiday. That being said, Rolf and Marci will happily share their local accommodation knowledge with visitors and finding somewhere to stay is hardly arduous in Goa, a place well-frequented by local and international visitors. Their best picks are available on the Yogabones website, although they don't make any of the arrangements themselves.

Apart from the extensive yoga knowledge held by Rolf and Marci, which many guests travel to Goa specifically for, one of the most endearing things about the pair is their love of animals. Each evening they hold an informal gathering on the beach, to chat, bid farewell to the sun and generally enjoy the company of their human and four-legged friends.

As the sun drops gracefully into the water, it is easy to feel a sense of timeless contentment – a lesson taken from the frolicking dogs who seem to understand better than any of us the importance of living in the moment. Sitting comfortably on the cooling sands, among new friends, enlightenment lies in moments like this.

About the area

Once a Portugese colony, Goa retains its feeling of being somehow separate from the rest of India. It’s not just that D’Souza is a common Indian name, or that the coastline is unique in its beauty. There is a far more relaxed attitude in Goa that does not exist anywhere else in India. Here is where the bright young things of the country come to play and are free to wear shorts, arm-baring tops and even bikinis, a radical departure from the pervading modesty in the rest of the country.

Since the 1960s, the beach culture of Goa has drawn international visitors in their thousands, and the abundance of nightclubs, markets and laid-back bars is a testimony to Goa’s comfort with a more liberal way of life. The ideal time to visit Goa is either before or after monsoon season (June - October) and it is not only the sparkling turquoise waters that are on offer for travellers. The Goan hinterland is home to a multitude of wildlife sanctuaries, with Sakrebyle being one of the most popular. Here, orphaned or injured elephants are nursed back to health and released into the wild. They often return for visits, and are happy to say hello to tourists as well.

For those brave enough to venture to Goa during the rainy season, be aware that many of the amenities (shops, summer guesthouses and the like) close their doors during off-season. This is the time that many locals take their own vacations, giving Goa a very different feeling. Also, when it rains here, it really rains. Walls of water that drench immediately and are sometimes heavy enough to be painful. Nonetheless, there is sometimes a certain charm to a rainy, abandoned beach as Goa-fans are quick to point out.